Slab Calculator — Thickness Presets for Every Job
Pick your project type to set the right thickness, then enter the size. Thickness is the number people get wrong most often — too thin cracks, too thick wastes money.
Your slab
Prices — national-average defaults, edit to your local prices
Defaults are planning averages, not quotes. Your supplier's prices are the real ones — type them in.
Estimates only, for planning. Preset thicknesses are common practice, not a substitute for local code or an engineer's spec — frost depth, soil, and loads all vary. See the slab thickness guide for the reasoning.
Thickness quick reference
| Project | Typical thickness | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Walkway, patio, shed floor | 4″ | Foot traffic and light loads only. |
| Driveway — cars and pickups | 5″ | 6″ at the apron where it meets the street. |
| Driveway — trucks, RVs, trailers | 6″ | Reinforcement strongly recommended. |
| Garage floor | 5–6″ | Check local code; vapor barrier underneath. |
| Heavy equipment / shop pad | 6–8″ | Engineered jobs may spec more, plus rebar grids. |
Frequently asked questions
Is a 4-inch slab strong enough for a driveway?
Millions of driveways are 4 inches and hold up — on a well-compacted base with good drainage. Five inches adds only 25% more concrete but noticeably more crack resistance under car and truck loads, which is why many contractors default to 5. The base and the joints matter more than the last inch.
Does thickness change the bag count much?
Directly and proportionally. Going from 4 to 5 inches adds exactly 25% more volume, bags, and cost. That is why "just make it 6 inches to be safe" gets expensive on a big slab — run both numbers here before you decide.
What goes under the slab?
Typically 2–4 inches of compacted gravel (crusher run or 3/4″ stone), compacted in lifts. It levels the pour, drains water, and reduces frost movement. Wire mesh or rebar is cheap insurance on driveways and garage floors. More in the thickness guide.